In the drying room of Ugolini Vini, the art of Appassimento (grape drying) comes to life under the symbolic protection of the Archangel Michael, turning grapes into extraordinary wines that tell the story of the Valpolicella's millennial tradition.
Valpolicella is a land rich in traditions, where time flows to the rhythm of nature and grapes are turned into unique and special wines. Among these, Recioto and Amarone della Valpolicella Classica represent the milestones of an enological history rooted in the past, carrying on a unique and fascinating process: the "Appassimento". This technique, which transforms bunches of grapes into little treasure chests of flavour, is the secret behind the excellence of the wines produced by Ugolini Vini, ambassadors of Valpolicella Classica.
Appassimento: An Ancient and Treasured Process
The path to Appassimento begins in the vineyards, where the bunches of grapes are carefully picked, selecting only those that are perfectly healthy and undamaged. By contrast to traditional winemaking, which moves the grapes immediately to the winery, a different ritual is adopted for Appassimento wines: the bunches of grapes are arranged in small boxes and brought to the drying room, the building dedicated to this magical stage of the process.
It is in the heart of Ugolini Vini's drying room that the symbolic presence of the Archangel Michael can be felt. The excellence in protection, symbol of purity and justice, St. Michael represents for Ugolini the heavenly guide who oversees each stage of the process, as a guarantor of quality and integrity. Thanks to his inspiration, each bunch, slowly dehydrating, rises to its purest essence, far from the dangers of mold or spoilage.
Formerly, the grapes used to rest on “arele”, large wooden grates, but today boxes are preferred, which provide more hygiene and safety. Here, thanks to fans and careful control of humidity and temperature, the berries begin to lose water but keep sugars and flavours. In this way, the grapes are transformed into a concentrate of taste, almost like what happens when a fresh plum becomes dry, intensifying its distinct flavour.
Just as St. Michael defends the good against the evil, so does the drying room protect the grapes, turning them into a tribute to the tradition and excellence of Valpolicella.
Recioto and Amarone: The Sons of Appassimento
This process gives life to Recioto, the sweet wine for excellence, which the Greeks and Romans would have loved for its natural sweetness, with no need for added spices or honey. It is a precious nectar, perfect for celebrating special moments.
But Appassimento doesn't stop there. By refining this technique, Valpolicella winemakers have given birth to Amarone, the noble brother of Recioto. Here, sweetness is converted into an explosion of aromas and scents, a perfect balance that makes Amarone a wine of extraordinary complexity and structure.
To produce Amarone, Appassimento lasts at least three months: the grapes, which are harvested between September and October, are pressed only in December, after losing more than 50 percent of their weight. This process reduces the amount of wine produced, but enhances each drop, making it a work of oenological art.
Ugolini Vini's Devotion to Appassimento
As far as Ugolini Vini is concerned, Appassimento is a ritual that embodies passion and respect for tradition. It is the key to telling the story of the Fumane Valley through the wines, which speak of a unique region, its microclimate and its soul.
Each bottle of Ugolini's Amarone and Recioto is the result of a long journey, which began between the rows and ended in a glass able to excite.
An Open Invitation to Discovery
In every bunch that is dried in the skilled hands of Ugolini Vini, there is a story that goes beyond the earth and rises toward the divine. Just like the grape that is emptied of water to become something extraordinary, Appassimento turns into a powerful metaphor for life: an invitation to get free of the unnecessary to rediscover the essence, revealing the beauty that comes from being simple and devoted.
Appassimento, with its blend of tradition and innovation, is still the beating heart of Valpolicella and the soul of Ugolini wines. It is a celebration of the past and a promise for the future, a story to be told and experienced, one glass at a time.
For the wine tourist that visit Valpolicella, discovering Appassimento is like revealing a secret that has been guarded for thousands of years. Going into the fruit cellar of Ugolini Vini means observing up close a process that requires time, patience and skill, but which pays back with wines of extraordinary beauty, true jewels of Valpolicella.
To discover the secrets of this amazing process, in the winter months Ugolini Wines offers its visitors the chance to take part in the “The History of Appassimento” tour: you will follow all the steps of the Recioto and Amarone grapes, visiting the Terre di Fumane drying room adjacent to Villa San Michele, where the magical process of Appassimento takes place.